When you drive from Lahaina to Wailuku around Maui’s head, you can easily disappear from civilization. Most times, there is nothing around for miles—just luscious ocean views, rolling landscapes, cliff hugging roads. And if you didn’t pack sustenance for the long drive, you may find yourself starving.
You’re in luck. Midway through the drive, you’ll come across the village of Kahakuloa. Tucked in an enclave near towering Pu’u Ko’ae, Kahakuloa head, the cliff hugging road descends into the village, and soon the mountains and greenery will tower above you. Stop at the pink roadstand for the best shave ice on the island ($3 a cone with 1 flavor; 25 cents additional flavor). The ice is so soft it melts in your mouth—bad shave ice is too icy, and hard. The trick is in how the ice is shaved, and at this stand they use the large old-fashioned machine where you fasten a big ice block near a blade and turn the hand-crank. Syrup flavors include strawberry, banana, pineapple, passion fruit, vanilla and a few other classics. Even better, get your shave ice with a scoop of ice cream on the bottom.
The proprietor of the stand is Ululani, the wife of Richard Ho'opi'i of the Ho'opi'i Brothers, an award-winning Hawaiian music group. Talk story over shave ice and learn more about the village. If you’re lucky, you can listen to one of the Ho'opi'i Brothers' recordings, and delight in their beautiful falsetto voices.
Nearby is "Julia's Best Banana Bread," a tiny green stand right by the taro patches. Authors of the controversial Maui Revealed guidebook have touted this bread as the "best on the planet." I haven't had all the banana bread in the world but the loaf here is pretty good. Julia offers samples of her famous bread, freshly baked. The bread is very moist and flavorful—perfect for an island breakfast or road trip snack. She sometimes runs out of the bread ($5 for a small loaf), so get there early if you can. If banana bread isn't your thing, she also sells Coconut Candy ($5 a bag), a tasty treat. Coconut strips are dried and lightly sweetened—so ono, and the only places to really get this is at road side stands or farmers markets. Julia also sells delicious homemade Dried Mango ($3)—a bargain compared to other stands.
Enjoy your treats at one of the nearby lookouts. Take a deep breath and enjoy the pristine view, the ocean stretching for miles. Take your time before returning to civilization. The next bustling town, Wailuku, is less than 15 miles away—down more curving, winding, cliff-hugging roads. But in Kahakuloa, you’ll feel like you're in another time, another world.
Getting there: From Lahaina, take Highway 30 towards Kapalua and keep going. The road will become one-lane and cliff-hugging until you get to the other side. Roads are paved, but not for the faint at heart. Beware of fast-driving locals—as a courtesy, let them pass. While this may be the middle of nowhere, there are a handful of residents who make this area their home.

Don't waste your time here, go to Lorranine's Shaved Ice across the street... She's got the best Ice in all the islands (between Memorial Day and Labor Day)
Posted by: Alby | June 01, 2007 at 09:51 AM
Hi There
I too am searching for "Bananas and Coconuts" I presume, candy company. Had the smallest "morsel" my bro-in-law would allow. I'm in love and dream about the chance for another taste. I've gone online, nada! ANYONE know how I might get my hands on their website, number, address??? Please e-mail me @ adrianecurrie@msn.com
Posted by: Adriane Currie | June 04, 2007 at 07:41 AM
I have just returned from Maui,and we also found this magical spot by sheer accident, I must tell you, I was very very very scared on this road! The only way I will go back is by helicopter!!!!..I did not think I was going to make it ....NOT for the person afraid of heights. I was the worse when it got down to the 1 lane that was so narrow I thought the jeep we were in was wider then the road. Good Luck for those who go. I loved the shave ice and bread
Posted by: kim | June 22, 2007 at 03:52 AM
My mother used to make this recipe for coconut candy like the strips some of you are talking about. I found her recipe and thought I would pass it on...very easy to make!
Coconut Candy Recipe
1 coconut
3/4 cup water
1 1/2 cups sugar
Slice coconut into strips with a vegetable peeler.
Combine all ingredients in a sauce pan.
Boil for 20 to 30 minutes stirring frequently until water evaporates.
Pour onto a large greased baking sheet.
Separate strips with a fork and let cool.
Bake:250 until lightly browned.
Cool
Posted by: iwonderyou | August 04, 2007 at 05:10 PM
We just got back from Maui the stand we stopped at on the road to Hana, the bags had a email on it coconutcandy@msn. It was so good.
Posted by: Bryan | September 08, 2007 at 09:39 AM
Can you get Julia's banana bread and coconut candy shipped to the states? Since they stopped there, all I hear from my daughter and her husband is how good it was. They brought candy back but the dogs ate it! I hope I can get them some more of the real deal.
Posted by: lee knepshield | December 23, 2007 at 03:47 AM
I have just been gifted a small (3.5 oz) bag of Coconut Candy from "Bananas & Coconuts" no email or phone but there is a snail mail address:
Bananas & Coconuts
120 Ulalena Loop
Haiku, Hi 96708
Posted by: Margene | January 06, 2008 at 01:29 AM
Just wanted to thank "iwonderyou" for her recipe for coconut candy. I tried it and it was identical to Julia's. Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!!!! My family can hardly wait for me to make it again!! It's alot easier than returning to Julia's. What a crazy trip that was. But absolutely amazing scenery. Paradise!!!!!!!!!! Mahalo again for sharing your moms recipe!!
Posted by: Maui is Paradise | February 10, 2008 at 05:57 PM
Does anyone have the recipe for the banana bread? What a fun trip! We had the Shave Ice across the road, down the hill, and the Banana Bread and loved them both.
Posted by: Susan H. | February 16, 2008 at 10:38 AM
Just got back from Maui.....we survived the road, our 11yo got car sick.....a shaved ice put him to right tho. The chocolate chip banana bread was AWESOME!!! Ours didn't come from a stand, the couple sold from a shop set-up in their car port at the bottom of their drive way. They were also selling quilts, t-shirts, fuzzy leis, hair scrunchies, etc.....Great people! If you drive the road to Hana stop for a Kalua Pig Taco..if you like Pork.....very good. And the King Dream Bars in Kula are TDF....there's a stand at Twin Falls. Lahaina's Okazuya has killer take-out~EVERYTHING on the menu is goooooood! I gained 12lbs this trip!
Posted by: Jane | March 25, 2008 at 04:04 AM
JUST WANTED TO KNOW IF THERE HAS BEEN AN UP DATE ON HOW TO MAKE CCOCONUT CANDY AND IF ANYONE MADE THE TWO DIFFERENT RECIEPES AS STATED ABOVE??
THANKS JOY
Posted by: JOY CHRISTENSEN | April 06, 2008 at 07:04 PM
http://www.coconutcandynuggets.com/index.html
You can buy it HERE! Hooray!
Posted by: Jeannie Breese | April 08, 2008 at 12:37 PM
Aloha!
My boyfriend and I did this beautiful drive around Kapalua all the way to Wailuku. Had no idea where it was taking us and behold the most beautiful drive ever! Untouched village and the friendliest people. On our drive did plenty of stops. We bought the ever famous Banana Bread and the coconut candy was delish. . from the Auntie Julia :) Stopped at the gallery where we wanted to purchase everything but obvious we couldn't afford it. We even stopped off at the Charlie's fruit stand and we stayed a good hour talking to him and his daughter. By the way they were out of fruit but talking to them made it all better. I wanted to scream at times with the NARROW roads be very cautious I had the best driver (Jason). The drive was long however nothing comparing it to Hana, beautiful however it has to be a two day trip to reap the benefits! Too many things to enjoy on the drive to Hana to only cram it all in on one day. To all the people in Maui ~ MAHALO Julie & Jason California
Posted by: Julie Rodriguez | April 12, 2008 at 03:01 PM
We just returned home to So. Calif from Maui. Went to Julias, she now has a website! juliasbananabread.com The best!
Posted by: Kokonutsusa.com | May 15, 2008 at 02:38 PM
We are going to Maui in July. We are going to drive from Kaanapali north to Iao Valley for the first time. I can not wait to try Julia's Banana bread and coconut candy.
I found her website where she will ship you an order of her banana bread or coconut candy!!
Here is the link:
http://www.juliasbananabread.com/index.html
Ginger
Posted by: Ginger Osann | June 15, 2008 at 07:59 AM
Aloha, I live Lahaina and have a B&B on Front ST. We do banana bread too, and Mango. I tried for long time get sistah Julie to give me her recipie for coconut candy but no luck. However I came up with my own and its pretty close. Don't use grated coconut though. We open our own and use chucks or large shavings. Want some - come stay. Just kidding, I'll post the recipie later, got rooms to do. Aloha nui loa. penny
Posted by: Penny | July 14, 2008 at 09:02 AM
If you go to kahakuloa village, please do not waste your time at Lorraine's Shaved Ice. I went there once and the banana bread was dry and not freshly baked. She freezes her bread. Go to Ululani's for melt in your mouth snow cones and Maui made Roselani Ice Cream. Also, don't forget to stop at Julia's Banana bread stand for the best tasting banana bread and coconut candy. Julia bakes her bread fresh every morning and when you get there, it is still nice and warm. You will not be disappointed. Money well spent and friendly girl at the counter.
Posted by: Kourtney Jameson | September 01, 2008 at 09:01 AM
We were on Maui in Feb 08 and like to drive around to have the banana bread at Julias. I guess we looked like the typical haole and the crabby fellow charged us 10$ for a loaf. Very sad. Great product tho
Posted by: | September 21, 2008 at 06:33 AM
I also love the coconut candy and yes you can order that and the banana bread from Julia. Her website is www.juliasbananabread.com also the phone number is (808) 242-9483
Just please save me some!!!
Posted by: tina | September 23, 2008 at 08:50 AM
I had the best coconut candy at Twin Falls Maui from Bananas and Coconuts. It was the best ever. I think you can get it from Kula Marketplace.
Posted by: Micheal Brown | December 10, 2008 at 08:48 PM
My husband and I just got back from Maui and I am missing it! We planned to go back with kids and I was upset to find lack of local foods as well. Our trip to Hana was scary but worthwhile for bread, sugar cane (not the juice but canes -we just ate and spit). We missed guavas! But the trip rocked! Thanks for the recipe, all the online ones used sugar, but a similar treat from Pakistan uses brown sugar. Mahalo! Love Aisha
Posted by: Aisha | June 22, 2009 at 06:00 AM
Thanks for the recipes, I'm trying them out tomorrow and will post my results. The Coconut candy we bought at the Pahala Cafe, made a trip back from the Volcano in March very fun for my wife and daughters...Cheers From Santa Fe,NM
Posted by: twitter.com/LeoMyers | September 11, 2009 at 02:12 PM
I made the Coconut candy last night. Here is how I made it. First, break and get all of the meat out of one fresh coconut, Slice the coconut into 1/4"wide x 1" long and 1/8" thick. Second, In a heavy sauce pan mix, 1.5c Sugar and 3/4c Water, stir. Add sliced coconut and Simmer until thick. Spread on a cookie sheet, separate the slices on the sheet and bake until dry to the touch at 225 Degrees. I made a batch with Turbinado and it tasted like the candy from Maui. I then made another from C&H Brown Sugar, It tasted like the candy from Kona. I liked both and my family agrees! Cheers, Leo
Posted by: twitter.com/LeoMyers | September 13, 2009 at 12:59 PM
How can I or can I get the recipe for Julia's banana bread? It is the BEST that I found over the last 20 years on the islands or in the world.
Posted by: Mike Conner | January 03, 2010 at 07:28 AM