On My Plate

Maui breakfast round-up: Gazebo

I'm a big fan of breakfast, probably just because I like eggs, pastries, thick bacon, coffee, and yes, coffee. Call me a brunch snob. My standards are pretty high, considering I can cook a mean omelette at home myself, so what really draws me to dining out in early morn is that lazy Sunday brunch feeling. Taking time with the paper, friends, and catch-up conversation. Of course, good, hearty food helps too.

Lately, I've been going around town trying out different breakfast spots on the island, all in the search of the perfect place. I've already written about La Provence, as well as a cute donut shop, so thought I'd cover some of the critically-acclaimed destinations. Such as Gazebo in Napili. I had never even heard about this place until recently, though the restaurant has been around for almost (or over?) ten years. It's one of those sleeper spots--a place everyone on the West side seems to know about and spread word of mouth. So one morning, we ventured out that way, hoping to see what it was all about.

The restaurant is located at the Napili Shores condominium complex, hidden away in a tiny, what else, gazebo, alongside Napili Bay. It's an understatement to say it is very popular. We went there on a Wednesday morning, shortly before 10am, and the line was out the door, snaking alongside the condo swimming pool. We waited about 30 minutes to just to get seated. It would have been longer if we requested a table along the railing for the best ocean view, but nearly all of the seats have a pretty nice view of Napili Bay.

We chatted with a bunch of people in line and found that nearly all of them were tourists, and many, repeat visitors to the restaurant. The same breakfast and lunch menu is offered all day, from 730am-2pm. The Macadamia Nut Pancakes ($7.75) and Fried Rice Plate ($10.25) were highly recommended by folks so that is what we ordered, to share. For old times' sake, we also ordered Corned Beef Hash and Eggs ($8.95).

Macadamia nut pancakes with topping

Once we ordered, the food came out very quickly. Our server even had our plates divided among us three, which we thought was really cool for them to do. The pancakes came out with a thick, whipped butter-like topping. A bit scary-looking, actually. We asked what it was, to find out it was a Dream Whip butterscotch mixture with maple syrup. Hmmm... It was very sweet, rather, too sweet, and on the pancakes, was a bit too much. Scraped it off. The pancakes themselves were pretty standard, almost a bit too hyped for what it really was.

Fried rice plate

The fried rice plate, even divided among three plates, was huge. The rice contained a variety of different meats including sausage, bacon, and ham along with onions and scallions. And on top, scrambled eggs. The fried rice was pretty good, but again, nothing too special. Same with the corned beef hash plate--right out of the can. Perhaps at that point we didn't expect the corned beef hash to be homemade, but it would have been really nice if it was.

Everyone seemed to enjoy the view

If anything, the only thing to really come here for is the view. It is stunning, and the ambiance relaxing (well, that is, if you don't mind seeing a line of customers impatiently waiting for a table.... your table!) We were in and out of there quickly. A walk along the beach afterward let us work off some of the, um, disappointment. Definitely not worth the long drive from central Maui all the way out here for breakfast, but if in the area, perhaps we might consider it again, just to try the other items on the menu. Or then again, maybe not.

Gazebo, at the Napili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Lahaina. T: 808-669-5621.

Dad's Donut Shop opens in Wailuku

Last week, running my usual morning errands--coffee, newspaper, and post office--I noticed a new sign at the corner of Vineyard Street and Central Avenue in Wailuku, Dad's Donut Shop. For a few days, I kept rubbernecking as I drove past, wondering why I never noticed the corner storefront before, or even the name of the building, Hart's Corner. One morning, I finally stopped and parked to check it out. And I was pleasantly surprised.

The workers are friendly and the kitchen uses no trans-fats!

I walked up to the takeout window and chatted with the friendly donut-maker. I asked how long they have been open. Five days, she replied. Wow, only five days? I was pretty excited to get the scoop, only to later learn a weekly paper already scoped out the place. But oh well. So here's what I learned that morning: there really is a dad named Leonard. The owner, former Maui County planning director Chris Hart, uses his dad's family recipe for old-fashioned donuts. We're talking cake-style. The menu is simple. Only three donut types are offered: plain (50 cents each), cinnamon sugar (75 cents each) or powdered sugar (75 cents each). Yes, you've heard right--each donut is less than a dollar. Throw in a cup of coffee ($1.50) and you've got a bargain breakfast.

But the question is: are they tasty? Fresh out of the fryer, the plain donut was warm and sweet, a perfect cake-like texture that wasn't too dense or crumbly. The cinnamon sugar was the same, just with the added punch of yummy cinnamon spice. The powdered sugar donut truly hit home, but probably not in the way that it was intended. This donut reminded me of the Love's Bakery powdered sugar donuts I grew up eating, only much better. What a nice hit of nostalgia. It's nice to see a bit of family history and old-fashioned goodness fulfilling a culinary niche in this little town. The shop is open from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 7 a.m. to noon on Sundays. So if you're nearby, stop by, say hello and try a taste. And tell me what you think.

Dad's Donut Shop, Corner of Vineyard Street and Central Avenue, Wailuku.