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March 23, 2008

Maui breakfast round-up: Main Street Bistro

Mainstreet_briskethash
Hearty appetites will enjoy the smoked beef brisket hash

I recently blogged about lunch at Wailuku's Main Street Bistro, but I also wanted to write more about their breakfast. While the restaurant serves the usual omelettes, eggs, sausage and bacon fare, two dishes really stood out on a recent visit.

The Smoked Beef Brisket Hash ($10.50), pictured above, is the quintessential meat and potatoes kind of brunch dish. It is meant for the hungry, or perhaps, the really hungry. The tender, homemade beef brisket is mixed in with sliced potatoes and onions, then topped with two poached eggs and a creamy cheese sauce. Because it is heavy, it perhaps is meant to be devoured slowly, that way you'll enjoy all the different textures and flavors: the saltiness of the beef, the starchiness of the potatoes, the sweetness of the onion, and the smooth comfort of the tangy cheese sauce. Break the yolks and let the egg flavor mix into the dish to add even more depth.  An English muffin or side of toast is perfect for sopping up all the juices. We dare you to eat it all. You will enjoy it.

Mainstreet_ahimoco
Main Street Bistro's Loco Moco

Loco Moco, which usually contains a ground beef patty on top of white rice and topped with brown gravy, is popular breakfast fare in Hawai'i. Main Street Bistro has a different take on the dish ($13). Blackened ahi tuna is served on a bed of fried rice and topped with a sunny side up egg and a sweet chili hollandaise sauce. It is quite an unusual way to enjoy loco moco, so much that it really is a different dish. The blackened ahi has a slightly spicy kick, and combined with the sweet sauce, the flavors can be a bit too much for breakfast, but your tastebuds will definitely awaken. The ahi was still rare in the middle, and combined with the hot fried rice, made for an unusual mix in textures. I'm not too sure it works, as I tend to enjoy rare ahi on its own rather than smothered in spice and sauce, but my companion liked it so much that we traded dishes. So I got to finish off the beef brisket. And then everyone was happy.

Coffee was typical diner fare, which surprised us given the quality of the coffee nearby at Cafe O' Lei. We did adore the friendly staff, and was even served by chef Tom Selman himself. Our only complaint, as mentioned in the previous post, is that the restaurant is not open on the weekends. So where else can we go on Maui to enjoy hearty brunch fare like this on the weekends? We're still looking. Just holler if you know of anything too.

Main Street Bistro, 2051 Main Street, Wailuku, Maui. T: 808.244.6816.

March 20, 2008

Maui breakfast round-up: Tasty Crust

Tastycrust_sign

I've got to admit, I've never been a big fan of Tasty Crust. I grew up with their famous pancakes every weekend. That is, my parents would go out for Sunday brunch and come back with a stack of their 'cakes for me and my brothers to share. I'm sure when these pancakes come out piping hot off the griddle they are dee-lish, tender and perfect, but to get them when they're cold, packed in a styrofoam takeout tray, is not a treat at all. They become tough and unflavorful without a ton of butter and syrup. So whenever I heard around the island that their pancakes are the best, well, I just never believed it.

Tastycrust_saimin
Delicious on a rainy Sunday morning

Growing up, I could never get up early enough to join my folks on their morning pancake feasts, and now as an adult back on the island, I never bothered to go there on my own to try the treats until recently. It was actually a desperate measure. My friend and I were hungry. It was raining and everything else breakfast-like near where we were in Wailuku was closed. Simply put, I was craving eggs, and so my friend suggested Tasty Crust. They do have other things besides pancakes, ya know... she told me. But I was reluctant. I couldn't stop thinking of those cold, rubbery flapjacks. Do we really have to?

Tastycrust_friedrice
Comfort me with fried rice and one egg

Finally, I agreed, but only on the condition that there wouldn't be a long wait. Well we must have missed the brunch hour because we simply walked in and grabbed a table. For a rainy Sunday morning, the place was almost full and definitely lively. Regulars were indulging in bowls of steaming saimin, plates of fried rice and Spam, and yes, plates of their famous pancakes. We sat in the cafeteria-style dining area and after looking at the surroundings, I was tempted to leave. Not that I have a thing against old-school diners, but this place takes grand prize for being the most down home and dirty dive of a dark diner. And I don't mean that in a bad way (well maybe in just a squeamish way).

Tastycrust_spareribs
Tasty spare ribs left us wanting more

I took my eyes off the walls and focused on the menu. Breakfast featured traditional fare such as eggs and bacon, steak and eggs, French toast and veggie omelettes. The lunch and dinner menu, which offered plate lunches like loco moco, pork cutlet and country fried chicken was also available. My friend was craving the Spare Ribs plate ($6.95) and we also ordered a small Saimin ($4.35) to share. I was still craving eggs, but wanted something more than just the Breakfast Special ($6.25), which features two large eggs, rice or toast, and a selection of bacon, spam and pork sausage. Instead I got the Fried Rice with One Egg, (small portion, $3.85), since I was told it was popular. And I also got a short stack of the Banana Hotcakes ($2.25), which is really one pancake.

Tastycrust_pancake
Short stack means one! The toothpick cracks me up...

My one pancake arrived hot with a slab of butter and a toothpick. Not sure what the toothpick was for, cause I dived into the cake with my fork.  And I was right. The pancakes do taste better freshly made. The sliced bananas added a nice sweetness to the light buttermilk flavor. Definitely better than the usual IHOP pancakes. Yay, my Tasty Crust pancake memories are redeemed!

Next, I dug into the saimin. It was just okay. The broth not so flavorful as I'd like, and the noodles were standard. I had to add a lot of shoyu to punch it up. I probably wouldn't order it again given that I can get a better bowl from Sam Sato's nearby. The fried rice and egg was also pretty standard. Then again, I haven't been too impressed with a lot of fried rice concoctions on the island. The best fried rice I've ever had is from Tanpopo in San Francisco's Japantown. But that's another story. The spare ribs were very tasty, though I wished there was more of it. My friend let me have a little bite, but she wasn't sharing.

Service was fast and efficient. Even when I took so long deciding what to order, our server kept coming back and wasn't too annoyed as my hungry friend. While overall the meal was so-so, at least I left stuffed. Perhaps next time I'll choose the local style omelette chock full of Spam, linguesa, cheese and green onion, or stick to the lunch and dinner selections like Korean short ribs, honey-dipped chicken thighs or curry stew. Oh well, next time. The best part about Tasty Crust? Super cheap. Nothing is over $10, unless you want a T-bone steak and eggs, which will run you $10.95-$12.95. Deal? Deal.

Tasty Crust Restaurant, 1770 Mill Street, Wailuku, T:808.244.0845

 

March 13, 2008

Maui breakfast round-up: Cafe O' Lei Wailuku

Cafeolei_chorizo_mug
Chorizo eggs and a morning cup of Maui Oma coffee

A few months ago, another Cafe O' Lei opened up on Maui. This time, husband and wife chef team Michael and Dana Pastula brought their signature restaurant back to its roots in Wailuku. The Pastulas, who own Ma'alaea Grill, another Cafe O' Lei in Kihei, and also run a successful catering business, opened the very first Cafe O' Lei in Wailuku years ago, in a spot that is now the Main Street Bistro. Now located on busy Market Street, Cafe O' Lei Wailuku brings some much needed food diversity to the Central Maui lunch crowd. Elegant enough for a business lunch, yet casual enough to walk in wearing slippers and shorts (and no reservation), the restaurant serves the usual fresh, quality food that has made the Pastulas' restaurants the perfect go-to spot for a nice meal.

But I'm not going to talk about lunch. What makes this Cafe O' Lei different from the other Pastula-run restaurants is that this one offers breakfast. Served Monday to Friday from 730am to 1030am, the breakfast menu is probably not meant for someone looking for a quick bite on-the-go. Rather, stop by for a leisurely wake-up call. Call it brunch for the weekday.

Cafeolei_loco
Loco moco with gravy on the side

The breakfast menu isn't large, but it offers the basics. For starters, the Cafe O'Lei Breakfast ($8.95) comes with two eggs, your choice of pork sausage, bacon, Portuguese sausage or Spam, steamed rice or hash browns, and whole wheat toast. For something a bit different, we liked the Scrambled Eggs & Chorizo ($7.95), which reminds us of many a NoCal (and SoCal) breakfast. The chorizo is broken up and cooked with the eggs, and the dish is served with cheese, sour cream, hash browns, pico de gallo, and corn tortillas to sop it all up. Very filling.

Cafeolei_friedrice
Roast pork fried rice with scrambled egg

Local-style fare such as Loco Moco ($8.95) and Roast Pork Fried Rice & Eggs ($7.95) are delicious and quite hearty. The loco moco comes with half a pound of Maui-raised hamburger beef, and topped with caramelized onion gravy. The roast pork fried rice is made with their popular oven roasted pork, and is so filling that you may not have room for lunch later. For those with a sweet tooth, Cinnamon French Toast ($6.95) and Caramelized Banana Pancakes ($6.95) are like having dessert for breakfast, particularly the latter, which is drenched with a rich banana caramel syrup. Those craving something lighter should try the Muesli and Yogurt ($5.95), which is homemade and chock full of coconut flavor.

And that is the entire menu! Whatever you choose, wash it all down with Maui Oma coffee ($1.95)--a delicious dark brew--or get your own pot of Sencha, Japanese green tea ($2.95). Service is super friendly and you'll never find yourself waiting for a table that early in the day. Breakfast here may just be worth being a tad bit late to your office job, or heck, call in sick for the day and come back later for lunch. Our only complaint is that this restaurant is not open on the weekends. Does that mean weekend brunch fare in Central Maui is limited to places like IHOP and (gulp) Denny's? Let's hope not! Stay tuned for more breakfast eats...

Cafe O' Lei Wailuku, 67 Market Street, Wailuku, Maui. T: 808-986-0044

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